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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.